Canoe The Ozarks

A robin is chirping and the trees are glowing with a haze of chartreuse that mellows the green with a signature scene(Monet comes to mind).  The Chorus Frogs are already calling from a nearby creek and daffodils are poised for blooming just across the street.

It’s the “second coming,” the renewal, the promise of new life!
Spring time has finally arrived in the Ozarks.

The sights and sounds of spring in my neighborhood are keenly observed and richly appreciated, but these are just an overture for the more intimate experiences I long for on the river…

I’m counting the days till we meet on the river in early to mid April.
I’m playing Beethoven’s Pastoral Symphony as I look for my favorite bird books and rummage through my tackle boxes.

We’re already looking at the long range forecast as we hope to view the Dogwoods and Redbuds blooming in prime time.  If the forecast is calling for chillier temps than usual, then we will probably be looking at more southerly choices and that would include the Buffalo, Kings, and the Eleven Point Rivers.

And if the warmer temps are forecasted, then we will choose from: the Current , Big Piney, Jacks Fork, or maybe a new river.

Seeing the Dogwoods and the Redbuds in bloom is a scenic treasure not to be missed, so it’s integral to our planning and river selection this time of year.

Redbud on the Current River

These wild ornamentals adorn almost every stretch of the river with a parade of purplish-pinks and the brightest of whites.  The waters mirror these vibrant colors as the trees seem to be posing just above the banks.

Dogwood in front of small cave entrance

And I often gaze back into the woods and marvel at the sight of the Dogwood’s white blossoms hanging, suspended in midair.  It’s as if they are floating. An ethereal image that will capture and leave you ever enchanted.

It’s this kind of imagery that keeps calling me back to the river in spring.

You could say that for the Bluebells as well.  This beautiful flower blooms in great abundance in the bottomlands along the river.  It’s another spring messenger that offers spectacular beauty but oh so briefly.

The Big Piney probably offers the best displays of Bluebells of all the Ozark rivers.  I remember a time on the Piney when we pulled over to a steep bank that looked promising.  When we climbed to the top of the bank, we both stood still and froze.  And so did time.  We stared in amazement at this little bottomland meadow that was completely blanketed with Bluebell flowers.  Lavender-blues and greens with golden beams of sunshine filtering through the trees onto this floral floor completely filled our vision.  It was almost cinematic or perhaps something more like “dream vision”(if you had Film Lit 101).  It’s like we pulled back a curtain to a place in a different time.  I almost expected a Unicorn to come galloping into view or a Hobbit to come strolling by…SHAZAAAM!
(in mythology,  woodland fairies used Bluebells to trap people who passed by)

That incredible vision of beauty will always have me seduced.

(More on “Spring Time on an Ozark River”; next post)

The wild and wonderful Eleven Point River rolls through the forested hills of the Mark Twain National Forest in the southern part of the Missouri Ozarks.

Back in 1968, Congress designated 44 miles of the Eleven Point(Thomasville, MO to Hwy 142 bridge) as part of the “National Wild and Scenic River System.”  It truly is a national treasure that abounds with great beauty, wildlife and adventure.

The Eleven Point is also home to the second largest spring in the state of Missouri, Greer Spring.  The enormous flow of this spring almost doubles the size of the river; so even in dry years, the Eleven Point is easily floatable below Highway 19.  Good to know when you consider the drought summers we’ve experienced in recent years.
Also, I highly recommend a float during the hottest of months because the Eleven Point is one of the coldest rivers in the Ozarks.

I’ll never forget the first time I was on this river.  It was a hot day in August when we pulled up to a spot where the outlet of Greer Spring’s icy waters enter the river.  It was probably around 90 degrees as we still dared each other to take the briefest of plunges.  Did I mention it was brief ?

Our legs must have been springs as we launched out of that water faster than any Bullfrog from Calaveras County.  Whoa!  That might be the coldest water I’ve ever experienced.  But I soon felt rejuvenated as I started to “air dry” beneath the August sun.

And it was quite a spectacle to witness this awesome spring enlarge and transform the river right before our eyes.  The gushing waters of Greer Spring plunge down a hillside for over a mile before they merge into the river.  Make sure you stop for this special view “from and on the river.”
(And make a plan to see Greer Spring close up.  It’s not far from Alton and it’s a short hike down to the main outlet of the spring.  The views are spectacular here as well!  To see the spring at its source, to watch its pristeen waters flow outward and merge into the river is a phenomenal experience not to be missed!)

With numerous springs feeding this river and especially after you get past Greer Spring, you don’t have to work hard at paddling along this cool, fast river.  Of course you need to be on the lookout for trees and root wads, but you’re going to enjoy the mix of rapids and clear pools as you glide through
this wonderland.

Because this river is a fast one, I honestly have not fished it with much frequency. Moving along the river with considerable speed is not conducive to fishing … not for me anyway.  I just enjoy the floating, exploration and the scenery when I’m on the Eleven Point.

We Brake for Springs (of ALL sizes)

I do know that anglers go after Smallmouth, Rockbass, Walleye and Trout on this river.  Of course you’ll need a permit if you want to fish for trout.

As for camping, you won’t find an abundance of gravel bars on this river, but even the smaller sites will still offer a cozy, intimate camping experience.  So don’t get too picky about selecting your campsite.  It bears repeating, there are not many gravel bars.  And the gravel bars you will find are usually small, so be ready to get cozy.

Cozy Campsite on the Upper Eleven Point River

We have been to the Eleven Point in the months of May, August and September.  Every trip has offered new experiences and new adventures that I look forward to sharing in future posts.

So for now fellow paddlers I beseech you,

Make a plan to go and discover the treasures of the Eleven Point River…

Wowsers and Yikes!

Local media recently reported a sighting of a Mountain Lion in a wooded area of Chesterfield.  A photo of this curious cat was captured on a trail camera by a Chesterfield resident(Jan.12th) and was later confirmed by the Missouri Dept. of Conservation(MDOC).

But there’s no reason to be alarmed here.  Mountain Lions, also called Panthers, Pumas and Cougars, are secretive and tend to stay away from people according to a spokesman at MDOC.

And since 1994, only 14 sightings in the state have been confirmed by the  Department.  For more information:  go to:

http://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/wildlife-sightings

Young males are known to leave the areas where they are born and roam into new territories, but there is no evidence of any reproducing population in the state of Missouri.

Okay, I feel better acquainted with this big cat now and I’ll keep taking my dog for walks in the evening; however, if I was a cat owner, I might abandon the “here, kitty kitty” strategy altogether.

And the next time I’m floating on an Ozark river, I’m sure I’ll gaze up at the bluffs with a new purrspective.

Sometimes the best cure for “cabin fever” is a…CABIN,
WHEN it sits close to an Ozark stream.

It could be mid January to late March before I take my “break the winter doldrums” or “cure for cabin fever” trip.  And if the temperatures are colder than usual, I like to head for a cozy little cabin at Boiling Springs Resort on the Big Piney River.  The cabins are on the small  side, but they are clean, comfortable and the winter rates are wallet friendly.

We stayed there in February of 09’ and had a great time!

Even though it was just a one night getaway, we truly made the most of it.
We arrived at our cabin the first day at around 1pm.  This gave us plenty of time for a scenic afternoon hike in the hills of the Ozarks.  We jumped in the truck and drove to the Slabtown Campground/River Access area in about twenty minutes.

We then hiked up to the top of Slabtown Bluffs.  The overlooks offered spectacular vistas as we gazed down at the Big Piney River.  I had never witnessed the river like this before.  Standing high above the river, this field of vision is so huge, so absorbing.  An amazing sight to behold!

On top of Slabtown Bluffs/Big Piney River

It was a short hike to reach these overlooks.  Next time we should hike the whole trail which is only about two miles long.  The trail is a loop that starts at the Slabtown River Access and runs south by the river and winds its way below beautiful bluffs.  It then ascends to the top of the bluffs and returns to the river access.

Big Piney River; Just Below Paddy Creek

The late afternoon sun of February is starting to fade and my stomach is on the growl.
We head back to the cabin and prepare a delicious winter feast:  shrimp; scallops; and baby portabellas in a white sauce over pasta.  And bright green asparagus on the side.  Yeah, we eat pretty well on these trips.

Oh, and the night is still young.

NOW it’s time to head for the river.  It’s a short walk from our cabin and there’s plenty of firewood on the gravel bar.  We build a big fire and kick back in our loungers as we watch the fire pierce the night.  It’s nice to warm our bones by the fire and relax to the soothing sounds of crackling, popping firewood.

And if the flames of our fire point to a night sky flooded with stars, then the river gods have been especially kind today.

Peace on the River

It’s about three weeks past Christmas and I’m already getting cabin fever.  Here in St. Louis we just received our second snowfall(2-4inches) and the mercury is dropping fast. The wind chill was hovering at -1 this morning.
Brrrrr’

just outside my door

And it’s this time of year when I often find myself looking at photos from past canoe trips.  I love to revisit the greens of spring and summer and I’ve got the gospel of Paul for encouragement:

Kodachrome
You give us those nice bright colors
You give us the greens of summers
Makes you think all the world’s a sunny day, oh yeah!

Miller Spring Campsite on Big Piney River

OH YEAH!  That song never fails me!
(the last roll of Kodachrome was manufactured some time in 2010; fond memories)

Another photo I love to visit often comes from an email my cousin sent me a few years ago(right before Christmas).  It’s a favorite because the photo and his comments point to the same affirmation made by the song…

Dinner at Campsite on the Big Piney River

“I love these 2 pics.  Nice to look at this time of year–the Piney in May.
Love the green, the fire, the venison on the grill and the goofy look on Cousin Bill’s face.”

That goofy look on my face is the bliss I feel when I am on the river.
(venison(dripping in a special family marinade)grilled to perfection might be a contributing factor as well J)

Anyway, looking at the photos brings a lot of pleasure, but sometimes the best cure for cabin fever is a …..cabin.
WHEN it sits close to an Ozark stream.

(Cabin Fever Cure in the next post…)

Pulltite Spring/Current River

The state of Missouri is endowed with an abundance of springs, especially in the Ozark regions.  Much of the state is underlain with limestone and dolomite bedrock which lends well to a process that has created a myriad of springs and caves.  Learn more about this and why Missouri is one of the principal “Karst” regions in the world @
http://www.dnr.mo.gov/env/wrc/springsandcaves.htm

There are over 3000 springs(includes many small ones)in this state and I have seen about 30 of these treasures.  From the largest of springs,“Big Spring(flows into Current R.),” to the smallest of springs, I’m always entranced by the beauty of a spring.

At Big Spring, you will see water discharging from the bottom of a bluff in dynamic shades of aquamarine.  The churning force of the water is so strong you can see white caps, then it suddenly calms to a crystal clear.  Awesome site!  The visitor center is run by the National Park Service and it’s only a couple of miles from VanBuren.

Larger springs that well up into larger pools show off shades of light blue to blue-green, or greenish blues(teal) to even a bluish gray(slate).  These wondrous colors(and many variations)can change depending on where you are observing the water flow and how much sunlight is available.
There is lush vegetation under the water and all around the outer areas of the spring.  And floating beds of Watercress whose dark green leaves are so hardy that visions of a fresh salad are easily conjured.

Watercress afloat

These springs are sacred schemes of nature.

The smaller springs have a big place in my heart as well, especially when I experience them on the river.  On an Ozark river, you will typically encounter numerous spring outlet creeks that feed into the river.  These are scenic places to stop, but of course the spring is usually much farther back in the woods.  Time permitting, it’s fun to hike back along these creeks to observe the different plants and critters in and around this ecosystem.

Sometimes you may encounter a smaller spring when they emerge from the bottom of a small bluff just right above the river.  Falling Spring on the Big Piney River is a shining example of this scenario.  This little spring sits about 15 feet above the river and though it’s small, you can hear its falling waters from quite a distance as it stair steps down to the river.
Crystal clear waters spilling down over rocks with mosses and GREENS that you’ve never seen.  This little spring is a gem.

Regardless of size, springs always draw me in with their unmatched beauty.
Observing all the different colors and textures with a soundtrack of splashing waters is truly mesmerizing.  I could sit by a spring for hours…

And sometimes I do.

(no pics of Big Spring or Falling Spring at the moment)

The colors in the Ozarks were spectacular this year, SO I HEARD.  I wasn’t able to get away this time and I still wince when I hear people mention how beautiful the colors were.  And some people are saying that it was the best fall display in decades.

Rolling hills of reds, rust -reds, yellows, ambers, and bronze are a dazzling display to behold.  But this kind of spectacle can still be more intensified when you see it on the river.  You are completely engulfed, surrounded by colors as you paddle down the river. The colors that reflect off the water are paintings in(you could say)watercolors.

In previous October float trips, my canoe comrade would sometimes do a little turkey hunting.  That works, but you have to do some contingency planning in case you bag one.
Sometimes it can be fun to set up a base camp on or near a stretch of river where there’s a pool or the current isn’t strong.  That way one person can do a little canoeing/fishing up and down the stream while the hunter goes after the big bird.
I have visions of fresh turkey and dressing prepared on the river …dancing all through my head.
There’s some great places along the Gasconade River to plan this type of adventure.

But as always, it’s the floating that gathers us to the river. And October is a must trip to the river.  When conditions are right, OctoberFest on the river will likely be some of your most enjoyable, memorable floats.

Think of your favorite fall colors splashed over waters and hills against a blue sky.  The sun is shining and it’s about 70 degrees. Later that evening your campfire is perfectly soothing as temps drop down to the low 40’s.
The night sky is blanketed with stars and you can hear Mr. Barred Owl hooting followed by a chorus of Coyotes calling into the night.

We must not miss a trip to the river in October next year…

When people ask me about camping on the river, most of them look a little puzzled when I tell them we sleep on rocks.

I certainly thought it was a strange notion the first time I camped on an Ozark river.  It just seemed so implausible that you could transform a beach of gravel into a decent campsite, let alone a comfortable surface to sleep on.

But I was so excited my first night on the river, I was in that realm of being open to new experiences and I had a great river guide to impart the ways of this new mode of camping.

With the aid of a good sleeping pad laid over the flattest area on the beach, a little raking out of the bigger stones, I soon discovered this was not only a comfortable place to sleep, but it was clean and free of bugs.

WOW!  No bugs, no dirt, no weeds.  This gravel bar camping is done in a virtually sterile environment.  For a newbie, this was a huge revelation.

And I soon came to realize and appreciate the art and science of selecting a good campsite.  I  look at two different sets of criteria when I’m evaluating a campsite.  One that assesses the practicality/functionality of the site and one that considers the aesthetics of the site.

Functionality:

* Good gravel/ bar – size and the consistency of the rocks; the larger the rocks are, the less likely you will have a good surface for camping and especially sleeping.  Stating the obvious here, but I’m starting with the basicsJ
Also, there may be times when camping on larger gravel might be your only choice, but removing and raking out the largest rocks will usually suffice for your sleeping area (bring your zen rake just in case J)

* Good landing – a good place to park your canoe that’s as close as possible to the actual camping area to ease the task of unloading and hauling your equipment/supplies.  This can be a big plus.

*Good supply of firewood that’s easily accessible – if it’s summer time, you probably won’t be as concerned about the amount of firewood you can find. (but of course, it’s always nice to have at least a small fire for effect)
When larger amounts of wood are needed, we look up and down gravel bars to see if there’s wood washed ashore from flooding.  And hopefully there are woods immediately behind your gravel bar where you can often find wood on the edges.  Being tired toward the end of the day is a prime motivator for choosing a campsite with wood that is:  plentiful; close by; and easy to find.

(just a few of the “basics” to consider when you’re evaluating/selecting a campsite; more in later posts)

Aesthetics:

* Please read my earlier posts that speak to this topic.

There are many other variables to consider when selecting a campsite, especially as they relate to the seasonal changes on the river.
I look forward to sharing more about experiencing the Ozark Rivers throughout all of the seasons.

Our first night campsite might be the best one I have ever experienced on any Ozark River.  It was beautifully elevated above the river like a little plateau.

And it offered a wonderful, commanding view down stream.

Majestic Campsite on the Buffalo River

We had picturesque bluffs to our left. And on the front side, we had our campsite aimed toward the river where it was channeling down into a narrow elbow that would gently disappear into the hills on the right.  I felt a little stately when I kicked back in my lounger from such a lofty position with an elegant view.  Contentment…
(even a nice photo can only begin to point at the beauty of this site)

The current of the river is fairly swift as it narrows down to this tiny bend before us; so the sounds of moving water are constant but slightly muffled by our elevated lodge.  Soothing…

What a grand theater, what an amphitheater!  We’ve got the best seats in the house unless there’s a tree house or hobbit hole(available)that overlooks the river.

The visual aesthetics are spectacular  and the acoustics are pertect.  These are some of the best elements you could ever hope for in a campsite.  Ours must have been pointed to the right stars and our hearts properly aligned with the cosmos, for the River Gods blessed us with an unforgettable place of beauty and peace.  Inspired…

This special place already has me yearning for a quick return to the Buffalo.

(I look forward to sharing information on the essentials of  “camping on rocks” in future posts…)

bow cam 4

Floating from Gilbert to Buffalo Point(approx. 20 miles) turned out to be a very scenic stretch of the river.
Rocky bluffs and wooded slopes were a constant companion as they hemmed our way down stream.  The contours of hills and hollers fold into each other endlessly as I gaze still farther down stream.  I almost expect to see a hobbit hole(with a perfectly round door) appear from this dazzling display of hills, trees, and shadows.

And sometimes when the sun illuminates a glade at the top of a wooded bluff, I am engulfed by a vision that would even bring Gandalf to pause.

For when the sun spotlights this abrupt, little opening(clearing) embedded with limestone rock, it shines like a beacon in the afternoon sun.  This wondrous landscaping of rock in a small open space surrounded by trees against a blue sky is a magical sight to behold.
(Glades are a sacred space;  more in later posts)

These moments bring pause.  These moments bring “stillness” on the river.

The scenery was so astounding that we spent most of the afternoon just taking in the view.  We paddled through some long, deep pools which can be tiring at times; but it didn’t seem to matter as much on this trip.  Another remarkable feature of this river is the abundance of gravel bars it offers.

There are gravel bars on “every” stretch of this river.  No exaggeration here!
You can not not find a place to camp along this paradise of Flintstonian Real Estate.  The first ten miles offered better choices than the last ten miles, but this just means you can’t be as picky about your campsite the second night.

The campsite on our first night might be the BEST CAMPSITE I have ever experienced!
(just up around the bend, next post…)