Canoe The Ozarks

As mentioned in previous posts, my cousin and I always plan on some kind of wintertime getaway to break the spell of “home cabin” fever.  Our winter getaway usually includes an afternoon hike and spending the night in a cabin that’s near or by a river.

If it’s late winter and the temperatures are fair, we also enjoy car camping in a wilderness/recreation area(Paddy Creek Wilderness area is a great spot!)

Anyway, we generally don’t plan on floating January through March; besides, we enjoy checking out some of the cabins available in different parts of the Ozarks.  There are some great choices out there and I look forward to sharing that information.

Overlooking the Big Piney River from the deck of our cabin site; Obrien's cabin near Licking, MO

MARCH 2012

It’s four days past spring(March 24th)and we’re on the verge of making our first rendezvous of the year.  Due to nagging restraints of the real world, we’re running a little behind as we usually meet up for a winter getaway no later than mid March.  We have reserved a cabin near Licking, MO that sits above the Big Piney River for the first night and plan on going to the “Piney River Brewing Company,” a microbrewery in Bucyrus, MO, earlier that afternoon.

And to make things more interesting…

This has been one of the warmest winters on record and temperatures reached an astounding? 87 degrees March 14 in the St. Louis area.  So the freakishly warm winter, the HOT introduction to spring, a weekend forecast of high 70’s/low 80’s, and pushing back our first getaway dates set the table for a weekend with surprising fare.

Already,

we had heard reports that Serviceberry was blooming and even Redbuds were ready to bust out in more southerly parts of the Ozarks.
Another source informed us that not only has he heard the expected Peepers and Chorus Frogs, but he’s also heard Leopard Frogs, American Toads, and even Green Frogs already calling.  And my cousin mentioned that the Bluebells in his garden were already 3” high.
Also, right before our departure, we heard that the Dogwoods were  now blooming!

LOAD THE CANOE!  It’s FLOATIN’ time in MARCH!

This added, unexpected bonus to the trip has me singing a favorite song by John Fogerty/CCR.  I have a grin plastered on my face as I drive to the cabin eagerly anticipating a weekend planned with a variety of fun activities.

It’s about 1pm when I turn off the county road onto the secluded lane that leads me to our cabin.  Wow!  This one is a beauty.  An attractive log style cabin tucked in the woods of the Mark Twain National Forest that sits atop a bluff(with a deck) that looks over the Big Piney River and a strikingly scenic valley.  There’s a Dogwood in full bloom by the front porch and a nearby fire pit with a generous woodpile.  This place has all the components for keeping us outdoors, but the cabin interior is also enticing.

Check it out here:

http://www.cabins.com/usa/mo/mo_texasco_001/mo_texasco_obriens_001.html

(The gas log fireplace and the full kitchen are just the kind of amenities my wife would enjoy for a fall or winter getaway.  And the quietude and beauty of this scenic location would certainly win her over J )

Daylight is burnin’ so we unpack in a hurry and then we’re off to the “Piney River Brewing Company.”  We just learned about this place only a couple of months ago.  Not surprising as they just launched their microbrewery business as recently as the summer of 2010.  We were hearing great things about their craft beers, so we were looking forward to this occasion.

And we weren’t disappointed!
Fresh, tasty hand crafted beers, tapped inside a rustic, beautifully restored barn out in the middle of the Ozarks near the Little Piney River, served up by people who love the Ozarks as much as we do, and it was only about a 30 minute(scenic)drive from our cabin.

Belly up to the BARn…

We thoroughly enjoyed all the flavor offerings; however, being huge IPA fans, we’re inclined to highlight how much we love the “Missouri Mule IPA.”
And it’s easy to fall in love with the names of their beers that pay homage to Missouri history and our favorite critters in the Ozarks.

Yeah, there’s a pleasant authenticity about these people and their distinctive hand crafted brews.

You’re going to love this place!

Go to:  http://www.pineyriverbrewing.com/home.html

Another post covering this late March getaway is soon to follow…

Peace on the River

Dusk finally fades into darkness.  Night has fallen on the river and on all of its inhabitants.  And tonight, that includes a couple of visitors.

They come well equipped to light up the darkness and celebrate the night.
The kindling is kind as it sparks to flame;  the roar of fire is soon a sweet choir
That sings from a ritual of wonder, warmth and light

The bustling sounds of the blaze, the vision of dancing flames
Sparks an ancestral  memory that whispers through the ages

Gather around the fire, bring a song and a story
there’s comfort in this light beneath the night

 
Log on, log in.  Let festive times begin…

some kind of campfire dance?

I’m bustin’ another branch that sort of resembles a dance.  And pretty soon, we’ll be throwing on the larger pieces of wood.  There’s something deeply gratifying about tending to the fire and building it to something bigger than a fireplace; but we’re not doing any bonfires* here.
*(bonfire:  believed to be derived from a Celtic custom of burning the bones of the cattle that were slaughtered at Samhain, a Gaelic Harvest Festival)

Though I do recall a story from our “shuttle man” about a time in December when he torched a gigantic root wad(from a fallen tree)right on the river.  He grinned from ear to ear when he described the big blaze of that bonfire beauty.  I found myself grinning too(self-confessed pyro since the age of 3)as I pondered that kind of spectacle on the river.  I’ll bet the critters on the river and in the woods were talking for weeks.

So our fire is nicely stoked and we’re settling into lounge mode.  It’s not much later when we break open a fresh bag of salted peanuts in the shell.  Once you start on these, it’s hard to stop and we keep the cooler close.

Peanut shells are still flyin’ as we start reciting the events of  an adventurous day on the river:  an unexpected and close encounter with wildlife; the discovery of a new spring; or reeling in the biggest** fish of the year.
Sharing these narratives around the campfire infuses more meaning and sometimes mythologizes* the experience in still more meaningful ways(*anything that helps me explain the natural world and my place in it).

So gather around the fire,

this mystical force of nature conjures up its own stories and calls us to do the same.

Peace on the River
**(A digital camera keeps that aspect of the story real; but it can never  connote or explain the drama 🙂 )

After relaxing in the waters of Shanghai Spring, we feel rejuvenation and a reluctance roused by reverence as we slowly paddle away from this spellbinding spring.

It’s mid afternoon and the hot August sun is still high as we squeeze in a little more fishing time and take a few breaks for swimming.
This whole day becomes an exercise in laziness on the river,
In The Summertime.
A favorite tune with an easy refrain won’t escape this moment:

“Lazing on a sunny afternoon,
In the summertime…
In the summertime…
In the summertime…”
(“Sunny Afternoon;”  Kinks/Ray Davies)

Quintessential summer tune!
_________________________________

Even at a leisurely pace, we still arrive at our campsite by 5:30, so there’s plenty of time to set up camp and gather up some firewood.  Yes, it’s irritating that we’ll have to expend some energy here J; but this brief interruption(schedule) of pain before pleasure is requisite to “camping in comfort” on the river.
So it‘s not much later when our campsite is set and our wood piles are plenty.

We’ve worked up a sweat, excited a thirst.
We’re dashing, diving into the river, the final rinse comes first!
Feeling refreshed, I walk back to shore and head for the cooler.
It’s time to settle in for  “DOWN TIME!”

Looking Out From Campsite on Big Piney River / Aug. 2011

I pop a cold IPA as I laze on my lounger and gaze at the rocky bluff  that’s drenched in golden sun.  And as evening approaches, a shadow curtain will be slowly gently raised to the top of the bluff.  It’s a closing scene to a favorite play of shadows and light that I just can’t miss!

But it’s not the Final Act…(another Piney post to follow)

Peace on the River

A favorite destination on the Big Piney River

The River Gods are still smiling as we wake up to a morning sun that invokes a certain promise of fair weather all day.
I’m already jazzed to get on the river, although we don’t move that fast in the morning.  After some fire toasted bagels with chive cheese spread and some gravel bar coffee, we pull down our campsite and load up the canoe.  It’s just about 11:30am when my paddle hits the water.

The sky is blue with a “poofy” cloud or two, and the sun is pointing our way down stream.  This second day excursion will lead us to completing one of our favorite stretches on the Big Piney River.

Big bluffs, tree-lined slopes, and sparkling springs that lose their names as they stream into this river, find me contemplating that collective  mystery of identity in oneness.  It’s a vital vision and a mighty metaphor that helps me connect to that mystery while it keeps me moving into that realm of “experience to live, live to experience.”

(I’m grateful for the inspiration and insights I’ve gained from one of my favorite Guides on(or off) the river, Joseph Campbell:
http://www.findingjoethemovie.com/)

These spring outlets celebrate their confluence with the river by splashing, whirling, and cascading with a cadence that comforts the soul.
It’s another kind of river dance that you don’t want to miss!

And so we paddled to “Shanghai Spring”…

Shanghai Spring / August 2011

Find a good rock and sit a spell…

Be still, listen to these clear waters wash away your weariness and feel the  revival.
These are precious waters.

Peace on the River
(another Piney post proceeds)

It’s August 12 and a customer is asking me a question that is very slowly penetrating my wish scheming daydreamin’ state of consciousness.  The next moment finds me abruptly cognizant and agitated that  “I’m NOT on the river anymore!”

I must have been “Piney dreamin’.”  It’s a condition that has no cure nor does it require one, thankfully.
It’s the best place I know, when I can’t go.

Only hours ago I was softly paddling through paradise on my favorite river in the Ozarks.

Peaceful stretch on the Big Piney River / Aug. 2011

And the River Gods were kind to us on this midsummer trip.  When we first hit the river, we had some concerns about the weather as dubious clouds loomed above, but our discouragement soon disappeared as the clouds decidedly parted, not entirely, but just enough to feel that solar blast of warmth on our backs.
It’s only a few moments before both of us belt out a few lines from that song, yeah, you know the one, warm shoulders and all.
(that song is sort of a sacrament on the river that serves us well when we feel particularly grateful for fair weather; River Gods make no demands for gratitude; but they sure appreciate it)

We were also favored with exceptional water levels for this time of year; there wasn’t much scraping on this trip.  Trees and vegetation looked greener than usual.  More evidence that this part of the Ozarks has received generous amounts of rain.

The sun dodged clouds all afternoon as we basked in the pleasant range of the mid 80’s.  The water temperature was a perfect “cool.”  Not cold enough to shock, but cool enough to refresh.

It was still early afternoon when we got out and snorkeled in what proved to be some very strong riffles.  The current was too swift  for us to secure a foothold for very long; but it was still a lot of fun to drift back a bit and stand in these rushing waters.  Feel the force of the current and watch the waves roll and kick up their own version of white caps on the river.  Exhilarating!

White Caps on the River

We spent the rest of the afternoon fishing as we had ample time to arrive at our campsite.  The Smallies were bitin’ and so was just about every species in the river.  By the end of the trip, my species tally would include:  Smallie; Largemouth; Green Sunfish; Bluegill; Goggleye; and a Longear.

And I only used one lure on this trip, my favorite, the Rebel Crickhopper.
I went with the tan version this time.

Wonderful afternoon!  Fishing, snorkeling, swimming, paddling on a scenic stretch of the Big Piney River on a classic summer day in August!

Can it get better than this?  Oh Yeah.  Just around the bend is a favorite campsite with plenty of firewood and a reservation for “teriyaki venison” grilled to perfection!

And this was just the first day of the trip…(another Piney post proceeds)

Peace on the River

After lunch, we spent most of the afternoon snorkeling just above the riffles,

sitting in the riffles,

Refreshment in the Riffles

and taking frequent plunges in the churning pool just below the riffles.

Wash me in the clear cool waters…

This is a water world paradise that will energize us all afternoon.  And it’s all right here at our campsite.  It’s like having our own river resort but the best amenities are nature’s offerings.  A clean gravel bar for camping with an elevated, scenic view of the river and the woods behind us for shade.
If amenities means comfort, convenience, and pleasure, it’s here.

After a fun afternoon in the river, it’s time to gather some firewood.  We’re cooking up some brats for dinner and we always have at least a small fire later in the night.
We keep our summer meals simple; but I have to tell you, brats with an icy cold beer on the river is a combo made in heaven(I can only hope).

After dinner, we are kickin’ back in our loungers and enjoying the view of the river below.  We watch the sun’s last shine as it recedes to the top of the hills.  Twilight, that soft pause before darkness, will soon follow.

And by then, we are already looking for the first star of the evening.  The sky is clear and we are stoked for a beautiful night sky.  It looks so promising, we forgo the campfire.
That night turned out to be one of the best star gazing nights we had ever experienced on the river.  The Big Dipper was right in the middle of a sky that was fully covered with stars in all directions.  Several shooting stars and even Lightning Bugs were streaking and shining across this (better than) “planetarium view.”

We were entranced for hours.  I think my head hit the pillow at three.

Peace on the River

Last September we were floating the beautiful Buffalo River when we discovered what is now one of our favorite campsites on any river.

(Check my earlier post “Best Campsite on the Buffalo” under ” campsites”  on the right side/menu)

We enjoyed it so much we vowed to return the next year.  Well, we kept our vows…

Return to our favorite campsite on the Buffalo River, AR

Another pledge we made was to make this site our base camp for the entire float trip.  And like most of our trips, we would be on the river for two nights and three days.  But this time, we were looking forward to sleeping in the next morning, knowing that we didn’t have to disassemble our camp.

And

knowing that we would have the whole day to immerse ourselves in this peaceful place of clear waters, rolling hills, and open skies.

And so the first morning greeted us with an early summer sunrise that perhaps came sooner than expected.  The early light found our faces as we awakened beneath the open sky.  Forget sleeping in, get on some coffee, let the day begin.  After a couple of cups of “gravel bar” coffee and some campfire toasted bagels, we are ready to hit the river.

We are going to paddle back upstream and explore a creek that enters the river.  It’s nice that the current isn’t that strong along this particular stretch so it’s not too difficult to paddle upstream.

We make it to the creek with ease and park our canoe by the outlet.  We walk up the creek awhile and marvel at the crystal clear pools of water that beg to be snorkeled.  The water is quite chilly yet there are no familiar signs(vegetation specific to springs)that this is a spring fed creek.  This pretty little creek that meanders deep into the woods needs more investigation.  Make a note in our journal.

Before we leave the creek outlet, we grab a few pieces of choice firewood from a nearby beach that happens to be sandy.  Yes, you will more than  occasionally encounter some sandy beaches on an Ozark River.

Sandy beach on the Buffalo River

Ok, so there’s no palm trees here, but it’s another curious feature that’s fun to encounter on the river.  We have snorkeled in clear waters with sandy bottoms and believe me, you do get that sense of being an “ocean diver.”
Fantastic feeling!

As we paddle away from the beach, we fish the banks of the river on our way back to the campsite.  We only catch a few small Smallies but we’re still having fun.
We glide into our campsite around one and relax with a nice lunch in the shade at the backside(edge of the woods)of our campsite.  We don’t need a canopy.

After lunch, we spend the day swimming, snorkeling…
(paddle to 2nd post a bit later)

It’s the night before the Summer Solstice and I’ve been lounging on the little deck.  The Lightning Bugs are out in force tonight and I’ve got a great seat for this amazing light show.
Their lights are streaking and tracing against a dark curtain of trees that flourish along both sides of the little Ozark creek that runs behind our house.
It’s like having the perfect movie screen to showcase their best beams.

These flies of the fire are flickering in frenzy tonight.  Maybe they know it’s the eve of Summer and they’re stoking the flames with extra in earnest.

Remember

catching Lightning Bugs and putting them into a jar?  You banged out some holes in the lid so they could breathe and you might place the jar on your nightstand;  or hold it under the covers and gaze at the magical  lights till you drifted off into the softest of sleep.

It’s easy to understand why that experience stays with you for all of your days.  It’s a powerful pointer to the more wizardly wonders and mysteries of the natural world.  You can’t feel anything but awe when you ponder this kind of phenomenon.

I mean really, a bug with a built-in light switch?
CHANCE or PURPOSE?

He turns on his light and takes to the air while gently defusing the darkness of night.

A glimmer, a gleam, this bug’s little beam,
ethereal scene for a summer night’s dream

(Once upon a Piney, we saw the most amazing display of “lightning” bugs that we have ever seen anytime, anywhere.  It was the last three days of May(about 5 years ago) and our campsite was bordered by beautiful forest land.  When dusk became dark, their lights were so dense and the flickering intense, it seemed like we were witnessing some vast neural network that fired incessantly through the night…it was and is unforgettable!)

WELCOME SUMMER
and
Peace on the River

Kings River in Arkansas; May 2010

Oh Mamma Maia, daughter of Atlas(Gr), Roman Goddess of fertility, your name lends well to my favorite page on the calendar(Maius/Latin)!

This transitional month finds me still reveling in the resurrection of life along the river and excited by its unerring promise of summer.  This second wave of spring is composing the lushest and greenest of greens, the earliest songbirds are still singing, and life on the river is birthing with a blast!

Greenest of Greens in the month of May; Kings River

BIG BANG on the river…

The turtles are communing, the toads are calling, the frogs are leaping;  the fish are jumpin’, the beaver is slappin’ the bass, and the otter is looking for a new place…

This place is hoppin’!  This place is jumpin’!  This is some kind of  river dance!

Just up ahead…

Map Turtles all in a row basking on a log as we approach, one through five they dive in succession and the splash they make in the cool waters is an invitation to take a dip.

The sun’s rays are still cookin’ at 1 and suddenly Mr. Green Frog’s song has just begun.  He makes an explosive bong that sounds a lot like a loose banjo string.  This guy can pick!

Leaning toward the metal sound is Mr. Cricket Frog.  His call is a loud metallic “gick, gick, gick.” Rhythm or lead, his hard-driving gickin’ keeps “kuh, kuh, kickin’ out the jams.*

And after the sun goes down…

The Cricket Frog’s rhythmic calling behind Mr. Bullfrog’s lead vocals are particularly enchanting. This dynamic duo lights up the night!

Check it out at:  http://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/bullfrog

And there’s still more performers to join in this nightly ensemble that will energize me for hours:

Fowler’s Toad – he makes a short nasal “wahhh” sound that is fairly constant throughout most of the night.

American Toad – his call is a sustained high-pitched musical trill which is also prominent throughout the night.

And then there’s Mr. Leopard Frog, who makes a series of abrupt quacking sounds and sometimes it sounds  like he’s laughing.  And still other times, it
sounds like he’s rubbing two balloons together.  I think it’s safe to say that they make the most unusual sounds of any frog or toad species that  I’ve ever heard.

“Water Suite” on the river…

Take time to learn the different calls of toads and frogs:

http://mdc.mo.gov/search/google-appliance/toads%20and%20frogs

Or go to:  http://mdc.mo.gov/;  and type in “toads and frogs”

The audio recordings are excellent!

Once you get a Handel on the individual calls, you will gain a new perspective and appreciation for these performers when they join together IN CONCERT!

But you have to put yourself on the river for this experience!

So make a way to the river in May.

Peace on the River

Spring Time on the Big Piney/April 2011

The commencement of spring on the river also welcomes new arrivals of many songbirds.
These merry messengers have traveled a great distance to sing their spirited songs that soar from the Maker’s code.

Some of the earliest arrivals include:  Woodthrush; Swallows; Indigo Buntings; Phoebes(here long before April).  And four different Warblers:  Yellow-throated; Parula; Black & White; LA Water thrush.

Their beautiful songs are a sweet celebration, a sacred ritual of life that feels like a contemplative, community prayer that is heard up and down every stretch of the river.

Songbirds can be difficult to view at a close distance, so learning their songs and calls beckons with still more curiosity and wonder.  But don’t forget your binoculars, you’re bound to see some of these beauties flitting around the lower branches of trees that are right next to or hanging over the river.

And be ready for some great visuals on and above the river with a couple of my fishing friends, Mr. Osprey and the Belted Kingfisher.

The Osprey, sometimes called the Fish Hawk or Fish Eagle, is a raptor that soars 50 to 200 feet above the river.  Once they have sighted their fish, they will hover a bit before they dive feet first into the water.  Often times they will submerge themselves except for their wings.
I’ll always remember the first time I saw an Osprey flying above the river.  He had already caught a fish which was carefully clutched in his talons in an
aerodynamically correct position. Truly fascinating!
He winged his way down the river with a sizable lunch that left me beaming with admiration and feeling a little envious.
Only a few minutes later, we quickly pulled over and immediately prepared lunch(it comes in a can and it’s great with hot sauce and crackers J)

The other fishing specialist, Mr. Kingfisher, is found on most of the Ozark streams in Missouri.  He glides above the river with a call that could be described as a “rattling chit, chit, chit.”  You can often spot them perched on snags or trees hanging over the river and they are very territorial.  They  too will hover just before they splash into the water head first to snatch small fish and crayfish.

The Kingfisher is aptly named and I always enjoy watching him glide low and fast just above the river with elegance and ease.  And that rattling call he makes reminds me it’s his domain, but I’m welcome to pass through…

Red Sky at Night, Canoeist's Delight

As late afternoon turns to evening, I’m thinking about another companion on the river.  One who will serenade us with another song of spring as dusk turns to nightfall.

He only knows one song, but it’s one for the ages.

Some say it’s lonely, some say it’s haunting, some say it’s beautiful.
I’m not sure how it makes me feel until the next time I hear it.  I only know that I long to hear it again…

(just a few lines of inspiration from:  Ozark Mountain Daredevils)

“Oh, Whippoorwill,

Are you high upon the hill

While my feet are on the ground

Oh, Whippoorwill

You make my heart stand still

When I hear your evening sound…
____________________________

It’s a great song that takes me to the river.
And,
if the moon is shining on the hills, Mr. Whippoor-
will croon deep into the night…

Happy Spring,
Peace on the River